DOTHAN AND ESDRAELON
Light of the lonely pilgrim's heart,
Star of the coming day!
Arise, and with Thy blessed beams
Chase all our griefs away.
LET us go to Dothan," said Joseph's brethren," Let us go to Dothan," said I to Ibrahim, and view well the country that so attracted the Hebrew shepherds as a suitable place to pasture their flocks." Our request was at once granted by the good-natured dragoman, who delighted to chat, whilst reciting to us the beautiful story of Genesis 37.
Here we met a splendid flock gently following their shepherd, and as he played on a musical reed we could imagine Jacob's sons leading their flocks over the same fields. And we also thought of the Good Shepherd leading His flocks in beautiful pastures. Every now and then our dragoman would please us by singing the well-known hymn, "We are marching on with shield," &c. Our horses and mules having carried us so well, we dismounted and led our weary animals leisurely until we arrived at the Ruins of Dothan, where we sat down for a short time and rested. Our most pleasant companion, the Bible, not only interested but charmed and refreshed our minds as we read the story of Elisha—how he was pursued by the army of the king of Syria. Very realistic to us was the story of the army of Ben-hadad suddenly becoming blind. "And it was told him, saying, Behold, he is in Dothan. Therefore sent he hither horses, and chariots, and a great host: and they came by night, and compassed the city about.... And his servant said unto him, Alas, my master! how shall we do? And he answered, Fear not:... Elisha prayed unto the Lord, and said, Smite this people, I pray Thee, with blindness. And He smote them with blindness according to the word of Elisha" (2 Kings 6.).
Having rested under the shadow of a beautiful grove of trees, we again took to our saddles and hastened onwards. We descended a rocky and slippery path, and passed through the famous territory of the old robbers. We were glad to learn that the country has thus far improved that the robbers are no longer there. This feeling of safety enabled us to go ahead, until we arrived at the village of Jenin.
We were not a little pleased to find our tent already pitched, and muleteers ready to take our horses from us. My young servant, with a smiling Nubian face and bright eyes, greeted me eagerly. He sought for the pleasure of pouring water from a can over my hands, and another bright young fellow waited to offer me a towel. Then, with an outpour of salaams, I was informed that dinner was ready on my table in the tent. The dinner was enjoyed, and, feeling well rested and much refreshed, we turned to our Bibles. We thought of Joshua, to whom this part of the country was so well known. We thought of the tribe of Issachar, who took delight in cultivating the soil, and we felt as if the land here still exhibited rich fertility through the then persevering cultivation (Joshua 19:2121And Remeth, and En-gannim, and En-haddah, and Beth-pazzez; (Joshua 19:21)).
A little ramble through the village brought out several of the inhabitants, who most freely pronounced their benedictions upon us; which were not all free, as everyone who favored us with a blessing would not leave us unless bachshish were given. We therefore gave them some of the insignificant coins we had, which delighted them; and, with many showers of blessings, we returned to our tent, where a good night's sleep was most enjoyable. Early in the morning we heard the cries and yells of our muleteers. We suddenly rose, and to our great surprise we found they were quarreling. Some difference arose among them as to who should conduct one of the donkeys that did not seem very well. The dispute was soon settled when Ibrahim took his cane and struck several times, as hard as he could, over the shoulders of an old attendant, who cried like a child, as if in the greatest trouble. Ibrahim declared that, the muleteer, being the eldest, and the donkey being an old one, the two aged donkeys should keep company. I remonstrated with the dragoman for his seeming cruelty, but he assured me that he did not hit him as hard as he had done others. I comforted the poor old suffering man by giving him a few piasters as bachshish. He soon wiped away his tears from his black face with his sleeves. His weeping was now quickly turned into singing, and over and over again he thanked me for the bachshish I gave him. To my surprise he said he would gladly receive a thrashing from Ibrahim several times a day if he could only be certain to have my pity with bachshish. We now started once more on our journey onwards. Soon after we left Engannim, one of the boundaries between Samaria and Galilee we found ourselves on the plain of Esdraelon or Jezreel. Turning in the northern direction, the eve rests on the mountains of Lebanon. Looking southwards, we behold the mountains of Samaria. The view is imposing but the plain not so very inviting, as weeds and thistles take the place of what might be produced if it were cultivated. The place is doubtless the Valley of Megiddo of Zechariah 12:1111In that day shall there be a great mourning in Jerusalem, as the mourning of Hadadrimmon in the valley of Megiddon. (Zechariah 12:11).
This place is the Armageddon of Revelation 16:1616And he gathered them together into a place called in the Hebrew tongue Armageddon. (Revelation 16:16). As we traversed this plain, we thought of the many awful battles that were fought here. What scenes of horror were witnessed here! Here Barak with his mighty army gave battle to Sisera. Here Josiah fought Necho (2 Chronicles 35.). We thought of Judges 4: 3. And who can pass over here without thinking of Judges 6, 1 Samuel 29., 31, and 1 Kings 20:2626And it came to pass at the return of the year, that Ben-hadad numbered the Syrians, and went up to Aphek, to fight against Israel. (1 Kings 20:26)?
Onward we went, and we found ourselves at the wretched village of Zerîn, and as we leisurely rode along we read 1 Kings 21 with great interest. We were struck with the forcible Scriptural truths. Here we thought of Elijah the prophet, and of wicked Jezebel with her painted face. We thought of Ahab's palace, that once graced this place. Gazing round the fields we remembered the vineyards of Naboth. It was here that Jehu, who drove furiously, killed Jehoram. Here also Ahaziah perished. A very humble and interesting sight met our view. From the distance we beheld a shepherd carrying a lamb on his arm, the flock following. Presently the fellah sat down under a tree with the lamb on his knee, fondling it like a mother would her child. I inquired, why such care and tenderness towards that particular one?
To this he answered that the poor thing had wandered away from him and the flock, and that, having been looking after the lambs for some time, he found it, and so delighted was he that he had found the lost one that he carried it in his arms and tenderly fondled it. I thought of the Good Shepherd delighting to save the lost and bring back the wandering ones. Viewing this in the land of Israel, my heart was full of sadness. As I thought of the people who once were the flock of Jehovah, but, alas! gone astray, I could not help but pray unto the Great Shepherd, the Messiah, "Give ear, O Shepherd of Israel, thou that leadest Joseph like a flock.... Turn us again, O Lord God of Hosts, cause Thy face to shine, and we shall be saved.”
"Hamda-le-lah!" (Praise to the Lord!), cried aloud my cheerful muleteer, as we came near the village of Shunem. Our water-bottles were now empty, and our thirst was great. It was refreshing to eat oranges, which quenched our thirst. The muleteers, how-were not allowed the luxury of oranges. They were therefore delighted when they realized that in Shunem they would have enough water to drink and to spare.
The neighborhood here is delightful. Beautiful groves of lemon and citron trees met our gaze. But what charmed us most was a splendid well of water. Here a spectacle presented itself which delighted us much. We were only sorry that we had no artist in our company who could use his pencil to advantage.
Women and maidens from east, west, north, and south, came with pitchers for water, and merrily filled their pots, afterward carrying them on their heads. Some of them had most lovely features, but they were spoiled with the tattoo marks on their faces. All sorts of objects were stamped on their foreheads, chins, &c. And yet they seemed proud of their looks, doubtless considering these marks as adding to their attractions. Not being able to converse freely with them, we contented ourselves with saying only the few words which we had learned in the country, "Sit'teh id'dee Moiehe' fweh"—"Lady, give me fresh water," My request was at once granted, and a fine young damsel held out her pitcher for me to drink, which I did heartily. She then poured some on my hands, and I offered her bachshish with kattershereck—"thanks." Smilingly she took my thanks, and pretended to be unwilling to accept the bachshish. Still, she seemed delighted to go home richer for showing kindness to a Nazarene. Here we remained for a little while watching these Arab maidens and women. Shepherds also came with their flocks to be refreshed. We were reminded of many Bible incidents. We thought of Abraham's servant refreshed with the water of the pitcher of Rebekah. Such a scene as this it must certainly have been. "Let me, I pray thee, drink a little water of thy pitcher, and she said, Drink my Lord, and she hasted and let down her pitcher upon her hand and gave him drink." And as we gazed upon the shepherds watering some of their flocks, we were reminded of Moses and others.
Charmed with these scenes, we now thought it well to rest under a grove of trees for several hours, the heat making it unwise to travel further till sunset.
We spread our rugs and laid down, and soon slept, and the sleep was most refreshing. When we awoke we found that several of the villagers had made themselves perfectly at home, as if belonging to our party. Our oranges and figs being unpacked, they had helped themselves, and heartily eaten of everything. Our muleteers were so friendly with them that I thought it best not to say anything, but let them enjoy themselves. Seeing, however, that our good things were fast vanishing, I asked them if they thought that I was a prophet, and that, in case of my provisions being exhausted, I could, by miracle, supply myself with my needs? "No, no," answered they. "You are not a prophet." "How do you know that I am not one?" To my surprise they answered, "Because you don't look like a prophet.”
We remained here until late in the afternoon, during which time we conversed freely with them about their condition and views of Christianity. One of them, evidently the only one who could read and write Arabic, seemed proud to show his skill in using our pencil and note-books, wherein he wrote verses from the Koran, particularly those referring to Jesus of Nazareth.
“Do you Mohammedans believe in Jesus?" "Yes," was the reply; and he wrote in my note-book in Arabic, "Jesus, the Son of Mary, from the Holy Ghost." Another passage the old Shunammite scribe took delight in entering in my note-book was, "You shall never be sorry as long as you trust in God." I was surprised and delighted to find the readiness with which they listened to Gospel truth, as I spoke to them with the help of my good-natured dragoman.
It was, indeed, one of the most enjoyable afternoons I ever remember spending; when in the midst of the Shunammites, we sang some English hymns, spoke of Jesus, the Savior of all men, and the possibility that through the grace of God both Jews and Gentiles might become members of the royal family of God. How delightful the sacred page was to us that afternoon!
The children of Issachar were fortunate to possess such a fine land as is seen round Shunem (Joshua 19:1818And their border was toward Jezreel, and Chesulloth, and Shunem, (Joshua 19:18)). The luxuriant cornfields were very beautiful. As we sat under the grove of trees in peace, we thought of the warlike scenes when the Philistines gathered themselves together and came and pitched in Shunem. How it frightened Saul! (1 Sam. 28:4-64And the Philistines gathered themselves together, and came and pitched in Shunem: and Saul gathered all Israel together, and they pitched in Gilboa. 5And when Saul saw the host of the Philistines, he was afraid, and his heart greatly trembled. 6And when Saul inquired of the Lord, the Lord answered him not, neither by dreams, nor by Urim, nor by prophets. (1 Samuel 28:4‑6)). It was here that Elisha was constrained to make his abode. "And it fell on a day, that Elisha passed to Shunem, where was a great woman, and she constrained him to eat bread. And so it was that as oft as he passed by he turned in thither to eat bread" (2 Kings 4:88And it fell on a day, that Elisha passed to Shunem, where was a great woman; and she constrained him to eat bread. And so it was, that as oft as he passed by, he turned in thither to eat bread. (2 Kings 4:8)). Here the prophet resided for a time, and performed his great miracle—raising the dead son of the Shunammite to life.
As the heat of the sun was now moderating, we started, wishing good-bye to the kind-hearted villagers, whose conversation for several hours had so interested us. Once in our saddles, we went onwards until we arrived at the ancient city of Nain. Here we noticed the remains of old ruins, and some of the tombs in the rocks. We perused the very interesting description of the wonderful miracle of the Son of God in raising the widow's son.
How realistic the Gospel narrative was to us as we read:
“And it came to pass the day after that He went into a city called Nain; and many of His disciples went with Him, and much people. Now, when He came nigh to the gate of the city, behold there was a dead man carried out, the only son of his mother, and she was a widow; and much people of the city was with her. And when the Lord saw her, He had compassion on her, and said unto her, Weep not. And He came and touched the bier, and they that bare him stood still. And He said, Young man, I say unto thee, Arise. And he that was dead sat up and began to speak. And he delivered him to his mother. And there came a fear on all, and they glorified God, saying that a great prophet is risen up among us, and that God hath visited His people" (Luke 7:11-1611And it came to pass the day after, that he went into a city called Nain; and many of his disciples went with him, and much people. 12Now when he came nigh to the gate of the city, behold, there was a dead man carried out, the only son of his mother, and she was a widow: and much people of the city was with her. 13And when the Lord saw her, he had compassion on her, and said unto her, Weep not. 14And he came and touched the bier: and they that bare him stood still. And he said, Young man, I say unto thee, Arise. 15And he that was dead sat up, and began to speak. And he delivered him to his mother. 16And there came a fear on all: and they glorified God, saying, That a great prophet is risen up among us; and, That God hath visited his people. (Luke 7:11‑16)).
Looking round the isolated place, with the rubbish of old ruins, I thought of the condition of Israel-alas! spiritually dead, forsaken, destitute, and forlorn; and I could not help but pray: Oh for that day when dead Israel shall be raised to life by Him who is Prophet, Priest, and King, and when all Israel shall know and recognize that the once-rejected Nazarene is now the expected Redeemer, who as God-man hath visited His people.
Come, Lord Jesus, come quickly!
Long Thine exiles have been pining,
Far from rest, and home, and Thee:
But, in heavenly vesture shining,
Soon they shall Thy glory see.
With that "blessed hope" before us,
Let no harp remain unstrung;
Let the mighty ransomed chorus
Onward roll from tongue to tongue.