BETHEL, SHECHEM, AND SAMARIA
O Savior gone to God's right hand,
Yet the same Savior still,
Graved on Thy heart is this Thy land
And every fragrant hill.
—M. CHEYNE.
THE end of my sojourn in Jerusalem had now come. I was reluctant to leave the city of David! I rose up early in the morning, and hastened to take my farewell walk round the holy city. I ascended the Mount of Olives, and walked round the city walls. I visited the Great Synagogue, and for the last time witnessed the morning service. I called on some of my Jewish friends, with whom I conversed about the truths of Christianity, and with whom I left some tracts. I felt it delightful to realize that I was witnessing for Christ in the city of Jerusalem. Having paid farewell visits to some of my missionary brethren, I retired to my hotel, and rested for a few hours.
All the necessary arrangements being now complete for the journey before us, at last my dragoman appeared and informed me that all was ready for departure. A number of Jews assembled to wish me God-speed. I was charmed with their expressions of kindness, and I thanked God. My muleteers, with tent and luggage, having gone on before, we mounted our horses and started on our journey, taking the route leading to the Tombs of the Kings. Every now and then we turned round to have once more a view of the Holy City, and every time we turned round we could not help feeling overcome with emotion. Reluctantly we continued our journey, and with no little interest found ourselves in the interesting and ancient Ramah. Here we rested a short time, and most delightfully refreshed our minds by reading some portions of Holy Writ. We read Joshua 18., and thought of the great commander dividing the country amongst the tribes. We thought of the noble Deborah who judged Israel (Judg. 4:55And she dwelt under the palm tree of Deborah between Ramah and Beth-el in mount Ephraim: and the children of Israel came up to her for judgment. (Judges 4:5)). We also thought of King Saul, when surrounded with royal servants, spear in hand, under a tree in Ramah (1 Sam. 22:66When Saul heard that David was discovered, and the men that were with him, (now Saul abode in Gibeah under a tree in Ramah, having his spear in his hand, and all his servants were standing about him;) (1 Samuel 22:6)). And as we thought this once was the renowned city of Benjamin, full of life and interest, we remembered the striking events of 1 Kings 15:17-2217And Baasha king of Israel went up against Judah, and built Ramah, that he might not suffer any to go out or come in to Asa king of Judah. 18Then Asa took all the silver and the gold that were left in the treasures of the house of the Lord, and the treasures of the king's house, and delivered them into the hand of his servants: and king Asa sent them to Ben-hadad, the son of Tabrimon, the son of Hezion, king of Syria, that dwelt at Damascus, saying, 19There is a league between me and thee, and between my father and thy father: behold, I have sent unto thee a present of silver and gold; come and break thy league with Baasha king of Israel, that he may depart from me. 20So Ben-hadad hearkened unto king Asa, and sent the captains of the hosts which he had against the cities of Israel, and smote Ijon, and Dan, and Abel-beth-maachah, and all Cinneroth, with all the land of Naphtali. 21And it came to pass, when Baasha heard thereof, that he left off building of Ramah, and dwelt in Tirzah. 22Then king Asa made a proclamation throughout all Judah; none was exempted: and they took away the stones of Ramah, and the timber thereof, wherewith Baasha had builded; and king Asa built with them Geba of Benjamin, and Mizpah. (1 Kings 15:17‑22), and 2 Chron. 16:1-21In the six and thirtieth year of the reign of Asa Baasha king of Israel came up against Judah, and built Ramah, to the intent that he might let none go out or come in to Asa king of Judah. 2Then Asa brought out silver and gold out of the treasures of the house of the Lord and of the king's house, and sent to Ben-hadad king of Syria, that dwelt at Damascus, saying, (2 Chronicles 16:1‑2). What awful scenes took place round about here! (see Isa. 10:28-3228He is come to Aiath, he is passed to Migron; at Michmash he hath laid up his carriages: 29They are gone over the passage: they have taken up their lodging at Geba; Ramah is afraid; Gibeah of Saul is fled. 30Lift up thy voice, O daughter of Gallim: cause it to be heard unto Laish, O poor Anathoth. 31Madmenah is removed; the inhabitants of Gebim gather themselves to flee. 32As yet shall he remain at Nob that day: he shall shake his hand against the mount of the daughter of Zion, the hill of Jerusalem. (Isaiah 10:28‑32)). What woe filled the land! (see Jer. 30:1515Why criest thou for thine affliction? thy sorrow is incurable for the multitude of thine iniquity: because thy sins were increased, I have done these things unto thee. (Jeremiah 30:15)).
The sun was now setting on the western horizon, and gradually the moon was making her majestic appearance. What a magnificent light it was! We passed on our way, and with no little interest we beheld the ancient village of Beeroth.
Here our dragoman told us the principal tradition believed by many. It is that in this village Mary and Joseph first discovered that the Holy Child was missing, when returning to Nazareth from Jerusalem. The journey from here by the lovely moonlight night was charming. The atmosphere, as we passed on, sparkled with the sweet light of glow-worms, and the myriads of fire-flies presenting a view unutterably majestic, such as I never witnessed in my life. Surrounded by such lovely scenery we continued our journey until we arrived at Bethel.
Here we found our tent already pitched, and a good hot dinner awaiting us. Having enjoyed our dinner, we were prepared to undertake a gentle ramble round this place. Marvelously beautiful was the view of the sun and moon facing each other giving light and loveliness to everything. Indeed, it was a night never to be forgotten. Having enjoyed our ramble, we retired into our tent, and turning over the pages of our Bible—our best and sweetest companion—many Bible chapters were like a lovely panorama before us. And as we prayerfully perused the sacred volume, we felt indeed that it was none other than the gate of heaven to us. As I sat in the tent, I remembered that it was somewhere near here that the father of the faithful had his tent and rested (Gen. 12:88And he removed from thence unto a mountain on the east of Beth-el, and pitched his tent, having Beth-el on the west, and Hai on the east: and there he builded an altar unto the Lord, and called upon the name of the Lord. (Genesis 12:8)). It was here that Abraham called upon the name of the Lord (Gen. 13:3, 43And he went on his journeys from the south even to Beth-el, unto the place where his tent had been at the beginning, between Beth-el and Hai; 4Unto the place of the altar, which he had made there at the first: and there Abram called on the name of the Lord. (Genesis 13:3‑4)). I thought also of Jacob on the memorable night when, somewhere near where my tent was pitched, the patriarch slept with a stone as his pillow (Gen. 28. and 35:15). I thought also of Samuel, who year after year visited this place and performed his duties as judge over Israel (1 Sam. 7:1616And he went from year to year in circuit to Beth-el, and Gilgal, and Mizpeh, and judged Israel in all those places. (1 Samuel 7:16)). It was here also that under Rehoboam sacrifices were offered unto the calves set up on high by him in defiance of God; and feasts were kept contrary to the will and pleasure of Jehovah (1 Kings 13:32, 3332For the saying which he cried by the word of the Lord against the altar in Beth-el, and against all the houses of the high places which are in the cities of Samaria, shall surely come to pass. 33After this thing Jeroboam returned not from his evil way, but made again of the lowest of the people priests of the high places: whosoever would, he consecrated him, and he became one of the priests of the high places. (1 Kings 13:32‑33)). It was to this place that Elijah and Elisha repaired. Here was the school of the prophets (2 Kings 2:33And the sons of the prophets that were at Beth-el came forth to Elisha, and said unto him, Knowest thou that the Lord will take away thy master from thy head to day? And he said, Yea, I know it; hold ye your peace. (2 Kings 2:3)). To what a condition this place must have sunk when the stern words of the prophet Amos were uttered concerning it (Amos 5:55But seek not Beth-el, nor enter into Gilgal, and pass not to Beer-sheba: for Gilgal shall surely go into captivity, and Beth-el shall come to nought. (Amos 5:5), and 7.). This was a magnificent royal residence under Jeroboam, and full of wickedness. What a change came over it when it was purified from its abominations under Josiah! Bethel was, moreover, one of the great strongholds under the Maccabees.
After a good night's rest we rose at four o'clock in the morning, and once more took to our saddles and were again pursuing our journey. And as we passed the miserable village, with its hardly 500 inhabitants, we remembered the thrilling events when there came forth two she bears out of the wood, and tare forty and two children, little children, who said to Elisha, "Go up, thou bald head." As we gave a last glance at this poverty-stricken village, and remembered its ancient greatness, how impressive were the prophetic words: "For thus saith the Lord God; The city that went out by a thousand shall leave an hundred.... But seek not Bethel.... Bethel shall come to naught." The journey from here was somewhat fatiguing, and the road rough. The more we continued, the more did we realize the inconvenience of the burning sun, which made us feel most uncomfortable. After several hours' journey we longed for rest, but where to escape the fierce sun we could not see. With no little delight we entered the Plains of Samaria.
How refreshing! The numerous olive, fig, and other fruit-trees delighted us. Here we could find plenty of shade. The slight north breeze was unutterably exhilarating. Having been on our saddles from soon after four o'clock in the morning, we were glad when at twelve o'clock we dismounted and rested in a grove of olive-trees. We were so exhausted that we laid ourselves down under the cool shadow and slept for about three hours. Sweet indeed was the refreshing sleep. We then had some luncheon, and lingered a little longer under the shadow of the trees. Then we realized fully the meaning of "I sat down under His shadow with great delight," &c. (Song 2:3). We were now revived, and prepared once more to mount our good Arab steeds, and start on our way to Shiloh.
As we neared the spot and viewed the ruins and old broken column, what strange associations we remembered! What busy scenes took place here when.... "they cast lots before the Lord in Shiloh!" (Josh. 18.) How graphic to our minds was Judges 21:2121And see, and, behold, if the daughters of Shiloh come out to dance in dances, then come ye out of the vineyards, and catch you every man his wife of the daughters of Shiloh, and go to the land of Benjamin. (Judges 21:21)! Here was the Tabernacle pitched at the close of the life of Joshua. To this place was brought the Ark of the Lord from Gilgal. And here it remained until it was taken by the Philistines, when Eli died and the glory departed from Shiloh. Ichabod was distinctly seen and realized as we gazed upon the ruins. Again and again we opened our sacred Book. We thought of Hannah, and Samuel, and the prophet Ahijah. Very tender memories clustered round this miserable, dreary, and forlorn spot!
We started for Shechem, but a considerable distance was yet before us. Meanwhile, a lovely stretch of land met our view. The great plain with the mountains of Samaria presented a beautiful view. Mount Gerizim in his stately grandeur reminded us of so many Biblical and historical associations. The fertility of the surrounding country made us feel that Jacob was surely wise in settling with his family in such a beautiful spot. With much pleasure we passed on to Jacob's Well. Spot of blessed memories. We remembered John 4... "Now Jacob's well was there. Jesus, therefore, being wearied with His journey, sat thus on the well." We read the full story of Christ's conversation with the woman of Samaria. The view all round, the corn-fields, &c., we thought, must have been somewhat the same as it was in the time of our blessed Lord, and we could understand what it was that prompted Him to say, "Say not ye, There are yet four months and then cometh harvest? Behold I say unto you, Lift up your eyes, and look on the fields, for they are white already to harvest." And as we thought on the well, and the name it bears, we refreshed our minds with thoughts of Him who was greater than Jacob, through whom we were blessed with the well of water which giveth everlasting life. Leaving this interesting spot we had a good view of the tomb of Joseph, then we passed on to Nablus, or ancient Shechem. Being weary, after many hours' traveling we were once more glad to find ourselves in the tent already pitched. 'After having a hot dinner prepared by the cook I had from Jerusalem—a bright, smart young fellow whom I engaged to accompany me through the country—I was abundantly refreshed. Thus another night I spent under the canopy of heaven, patriarch-like, dwelling in a tent.
The night at Shechem will ever be memorable. Evening was spent most profitably in rambling round the city. Passing the mosque, it was interesting to notice the Mohammedans flocking together for evening prayers. The people here seemed unkindly disposed. Now and then we were jeered at by the street prowlers, and one or two youths, as "Nazarene I" We accordingly thought it better to leave the city, and to return to our tent outside the gate, as we did not think it safe to ramble about in the dark in the town noted for the fanaticism of its inhabitants. We were now weary, and yet, because the place of our encampment was so interesting, we read our Bibles as long as possible before giving ourselves over to the slumbers of the night. How realistic was Genesis 12, as we remembered that it was here that the father of the faithful received the wonderful promise! “And Abram passed through the land unto the place of Sichem.... And the Lord appeared unto Abram and said, Unto thy seed will I give this land." What an exercise of faith The Canaanites then possessed the land, yet the father of the faithful believed the promise, knowing that what is impossible with man is a blessed possibility with God. Here we also thought of Jacob returning from a long exile, with many Divine promises already fulfilled, and some yet to come to pass (Gen. 33:18-2018And Jacob came to Shalem, a city of Shechem, which is in the land of Canaan, when he came from Padan-aram; and pitched his tent before the city. 19And he bought a parcel of a field, where he had spread his tent, at the hand of the children of Hamor, Shechem's father, for an hundred pieces of money. 20And he erected there an altar, and called it El-elohe-Israel. (Genesis 33:18‑20)). We here thought of the terrible tragedy of Simeon and Levi, and the fall of the city into their hands, and the awful slaughter of the male inhabitants (Gen. 34.). Here many refugees found shelter when this was the appointed city of refuge (Joshua 20:77And they appointed Kedesh in Galilee in mount Naphtali, and Shechem in mount Ephraim, and Kirjath-arba, which is Hebron, in the mountain of Judah. (Joshua 20:7)). Here also Joseph came by the request of his father to look after his brethren, when, to his disappointment, they had departed (Gen. 37.). Somewhere near here, too, the brethren sold him to a company of Ishmaelites! The night was now advanced. Weary, and anxious to rest, we retired to our tent beds, but to our weary bodies there was no rest that night.
Like all 'Turkish towns, the streets are full of half-starved dogs, and those wretched animals in Shechem delight to bark at strangers. Their noise was so great that during the whole night we did not have any sleep. We then realized how comforting it was to know that our dwelling was a moveable tent, and we determined next time to have it pitched where no dogs would destroy our rest.
Hearing the constant howling of these dogs, we were reminded of the description of the Psalmist concerning hit enemies—"They return at evening, they make a noise like a dog, and go round about the city" (Psalm 59:66They return at evening: they make a noise like a dog, and go round about the city. (Psalm 59:6)).
The night was spent in this manner, and we were thankful when morning came, and after partaking of some breakfast, we again visited the city, although we were not greatly struck with anything therein. The city of Shechem contains over 12,000 inhabitants. The want of cleanliness convinced us that the populace was composed mostly of degraded Greek and Roman Catholics, and of Mohammedans! Strange that cleanliness and godliness are so conspicuous by their absence amongst them.
Having seen the mosque the previous evening, we thought it worthwhile to have another view by daylight. The architecture looked somewhat ancient. Its history is not a little interesting. In the time of the Crusaders it was a church belonging to the Knights of St. John, that sanctuary having been dedicated to the apostle of that name. It is strange that the church, once hallowed as the place where the Cross was erected, should now be the sanctuary over which the Crescent sways! Near to this mosque stands another small one of reverence and importance to the inhabitants. This small mosque is said to stand on the site where the almost broken-hearted Jacob sat when his cruel sons discovered him, and spread before him the bloody coat of his darling Joseph. Here I was delighted to meet with a Jew, with whom I had a profitable conversation about the expectation of Israel. With a sigh this poor Israelite said, "I am now too weary to wait. Our learned men have declared over and over again that the Messiah would come at certain periods, and we have earnestly and most prayerfully waited, yet Israel's hope is not realized." Seeing the earnestness of the man, my heart was touched, and I said: "I am also an Israelite, who have, like yourself, waited and longed, hoped, yearned, and sighed after the promised Messiah; but, blessed be the Holy One of Israel, I have found the Messiah, the son of David, even according to the divine predictions of the Scriptures." The conversation became so warm, friendly, and truly touching, that I gave up sight-seeing, and returned with him to my tent, where we spent a good time in reading several portions of Scripture, and I endeavored to show him from Moses and the Prophets that Jesus is the Christ. I presented him with a Hebrew copy of the New Testament, which he gratefully accepted. On leaving me he thanked me for my friendliness, and promised to read the book carefully. The Jew having left me, I again took a good walk through the city.
How delightful it was to read the Scriptural accounts of events so thrilling which took place in this city! Nothing could be more instructive than to walk about with an open Bible in hand and read 1 Kings 12. Here the Samaritans, after their return from captivity, made their center of worship. But above all interesting events it was delightful to remember that here the Redeemer of the world paid a most blessed and memorable visit. Here into this city came the woman of Samaria, and testified of Christ, who told her all things that ever she did, and through her instrumentality many believed on Him (John 4:39-4239And many of the Samaritans of that city believed on him for the saying of the woman, which testified, He told me all that ever I did. 40So when the Samaritans were come unto him, they besought him that he would tarry with them: and he abode there two days. 41And many more believed because of his own word; 42And said unto the woman, Now we believe, not because of thy saying: for we have heard him ourselves, and know that this is indeed the Christ, the Saviour of the world. (John 4:39‑42)). We also met and conversed with some of the Samaritans, who took pleasure in telling us of their condition and history. With no little interest they showed us the Pentateuch said to have been written in the time of Moses, but afterward we were informed that the copy shown us was one of a later date, as the genuine one is rarely shown. Having seen almost everything of interest in Shechem, we returned to our tent and prepared for our onward journey.
Having taken once more to our saddles, our tent was soon taken up, and our caravan moved onwards. We ascended short distance up Mount Gerizim, but as it was now becoming very hot, we retraced our steps, and took the direct route towards Samaria.
The country round here was charming; the lovely fields are decked with verdure. The songs of the reapers, men, women and children, on every hand greeted our ears. The best view which presented itself to us was that as we descended Mount Gerizim. Majestic hills, delightful valleys full of fruitfulness, babbling brooks, splendid fruit gardens, reminded us of what Eden must have been. The vision before us was truly poetic, and we were almost sorry as we realized that all these lovely scenes would vanish from our eyes as our Arab steeds carried us onwards. Passing through a stretch of country so full of loveliness, here and there quaint and yet somewhat pleasant villages, we beheld the city of Samaria, standing conspicuously on a hill. We ascended, and found the ancient city was now nothing more than a small dirty village. Here, as elsewhere, some of the inhabitants came out with outstretched hands asking for bachshish. Their appearance did not inspire us with confidence in their honesty. We therefore gave them bachshish and left them. Passing through the village, once so full of grandeur and power, we remembered the words of the prophet, which have been so truly fulfilled (Hosea 13:15, 1615Though he be fruitful among his brethren, an east wind shall come, the wind of the Lord shall come up from the wilderness, and his spring shall become dry, and his fountain shall be dried up: he shall spoil the treasure of all pleasant vessels. 16Samaria shall become desolate; for she hath rebelled against her God: they shall fall by the sword: their infants shall be dashed in pieces, and their women with child shall be ripped up. (Hosea 13:15‑16)): "Though he be fruitful among his brethren, an east wind shall come, the wind shall come up from the wilderness, and his spring shall become dry and his fountain shall be dried up. He shall spoil the treasure of all pleasant vessels. Samaria shall become desolate, for she hath rebelled against her God: they shall fall by the sword.”
How truly also have the words of Micah been fulfilled:
With no little interest we read the tragic story of the siege of Samaria and all the events that took place (2 Kings 6.). And as we turned over the pages of our sacred Book, how interesting it was to read the story: " Then Philip went down to the city of Samaria and preached Christ unto them, and the people with one accord gave heed unto the things which Philip spake, hearing and seeing the miracles which he did. For unclean spirits, crying with loud voice, came out of many that were possessed with them.
Passing through the miserable village, some ancient and historical sites were pointed out to us, such as Herod's Temple and Ahab's Palace. The Mosque, once a church of the Order of the Knights of St. John, contains the supposed tomb of St. John. In consequence of the great heat oppressing us, and the undesired company of some of the inhabitants, we earnestly pressed onwards, and then we dismounted and spread our rugs under a grove of olives, where bread and wine refreshed us. Then we slept, and the sleep, like the repast, was most refreshing and enjoyable.
It may be when the cock croweth,
And night's dark hour dieth slowly,
When the day star shineth brightly
Before the dawn of the roseate morn,
He may come. Therefore watch and be ready,
At the sound of his voice. From heaven
He cometh to greet thee; changed, glorified,
Raptured At the dawn He may meet thee.