TO THE "LAND OF MY FATHERS.”
"For Zion's sake will I not hold my peace, and for Jerusalem's sake I will not rest, until the righteousness thereof go forth as brightness, and the salvation thereof as a lamp that burneth."—
"The nations to thy glorious light,
O Zion, yet shall throng,
And all the list'ning islands wait
To catch the joyful song.”
NONE but a Jew can fully realize how pleasure able is the prospect of a visit to Jerusalem. It was an unspeakable joy to me when, charmed with the prospect of seeing with my own eyes the land which had been hallowed by the Savior's earthly ministry, and of preaching the gospel to my brethren in their own country, I started for the land of my fathers. I was filled with joy at the prospect of treading those holy fields which are so venerable both to Jew and Christian, and with eager delight I hastened from London to Paris. Thence I continued my journey through beautiful scenery to Rome. The train passed along through magnificent landscapes. Vineyards, lakes, and snow-capped mountains each in turn charmed and instructed my eager, watchful spirit. I drank in the inspiration of the prospect, and watched with interest the laborers toiling in the fields with their oxen plowing beside them. Here and there wearied men rested beneath the shadow of the vines, and refreshed themselves with luscious fruits. Then the train plunged into darkness as we rushed into the Mont Cenis Cannel.
For two days and nights we retained our places in the train. We were very weary, but we would not permit our eyelids to close in slumber. In the daytime we watched the rivers pouring their varied colored waters into the blue Mediterranean sea; and at night-time the calm lovely waters lay slumbering in the moonbeams. At last our journey terminated in Rome. Rome, the ancient city of Paganism! Rome, the metropolis of modern paganism that now assumes the name of Christianity! Rome, from whence armies went forth to conquer the world! Rome, once the center of civilization, but now the slave of degradation and Popery! From Rome the conquerors went forth to destroy the land of "Israel; and to Rome the victorious general Titus brought the ancient and precious vessels of our holy Temple. Yet we say as we look upon its ruins," How are the mighty fallen!”
Of course we went to St. Peter's, the most famous church in Christendom. This magnificent edifice stands upon the supposed site of the Apostle Peter's burial. Without the slightest shadow of proof, this is the devout, belief of the Romanists. It indeed covers the site of Nero's circus, where multitudes of Christians were given to the lions, and therefore should be a holy place to those who, like them, call upon Jesus Christ, their Lord and ours. There is much within St. Peter's that will repay our notice, such as the works of Raphael and Michael Angelo. But from a religious point of view we must say, with sadness and pity, of the throngs of worshippers, "They have a zeal of God, but not according to knowledge" (Rom. 10: 2).
The famous bronze statue of St. Peter within the cathedral represents him as sitting upon a throne of white marble. The faithful kiss the foot of this statue with misplaced earnestness and devotion. It was pitiable to see mothers bring their infants and press their tiny lips against the metal. When we visited the cathedral, near the statue sat an aged Cardinal upon his throne. Before him knelt hundreds of pilgrims waiting to receive his benediction. He held a long, thin white rod in his hand; and with this touched one after another upon the head.
The supposed tomb of St. Peter is beneath the high altar, which is placed directly underneath the dome. Bronze gates, richly gilt, shut out the crowd from this supposed sacred spot. Around it eighty-nine lamps continually burn. From this center we observed a vista of chapels filled with magnificent monuments.
From St. Peter's we turn now to the Vatican, which is the most magnificent palace in the world. A visit to the Sistine Chapel is one of the greatest delights that we have ever experienced. In walking through the Eternal City, objects of great interest constantly meet the eye, among them a view of the Piazza Colonna. In the center of the city stands the column of Marcus Aurelius, which was erected A.D. 174. The bronze statue of the Emperor was thrown down in 663, and on the summit of the pillar a statue of St. Peter now stands.
We next visit the fountain of Trevi, which is truly the grandest in Rome. It was completed in 1762. The central figure is that of Oceanus on a car, and it is a truly beautiful sight. Behind the car are the statues of Fertility and Salubrity, and above the chariot are statues of the four seasons. We were assured that the water is the best in Rome, and our thirst was soon quenched with a fair supply thereof, and thus refreshed we were prepared to walk about to see more of the wonders of ancient Rome.
Not a little curiosity and interest was aroused when we beheld Trajan's Column, erected A.D. 117. The height of this pillar is not less than 147 ft., and is composed of thirty-two huge blocks of marble. On the summit stood a statue of Trajan, now replaced by one of St. Peter.
When wearied by walking about the streets, we found a place in which to rest in the famous Church of St. John Lateran. This church claims to be the mother of all the churches of the City of the world. Here the Pope is crowned. St. John Lateran was assigned as a Papal residence by the Emperor Constantine.
The Basilica here claims to possess many precious relics, such as portions of the manger in which the infant Savior was cradled; the shirt and seamless coat which are said to have been made for Him by the Virgin; and some of the loaves and fishes which were miraculously multiplied in order to feed the multitude. The linen cloth with which Christ is said to have dried the feet of His disciples, and even Aaron's rod with which Moses smote the Red Sea, are shown!
Among other objects of superstition is the "Scala Santa, or Holy Staircase." This is said to have been trodden by the Lord Himself when on Fib, way to Pilate's judgment hall. There are twenty-eight stairs of veined white marble. These, we are told, were brought from Jerusalem by the Empress Helena. No one is allowed to ascend the staircase otherwise than upon the knees. It was whilst making an ascent of this holy staircase that the text flashed across the mind of Luther, " The just shall live by faith." He arose from his knees, and left Rome at once; and by Divine help he shook the world to its foundations by means of the truth thus learned.
After considerable rest we visit the old ruins of the marvelous Coliseum. Near it stands the triumphal arch of Titus, which commemorates his triumph over the Jews. We gaze at it, and are reminded of the captive Jews who were brought to Rome with broken hearts to behold the precious vessels of the holy Temple profaned in a Pagan city. The carving on the right-hand side of the arch represents' the triumphal procession with Jews; the silver trumpets, the table of show-bread, and the seven-branched golden candlestick. Many pious Jews in Rome will not pass under it. The arch is to them an object of pain and humiliation.
We have now seen enough of ancient and modern Rome, and we hasten on to Naples. "See Naples and die!" says the proverb. Naples is probably the loveliest city in the world. "The beautiful bay, reflecting the buildings in its azure waters; the picturesque amphitheater formed by the verdant, villa-sprinkled hills that enclose the city; mighty Vesuvius on the right; the fair shores, sweeping round on the one hand by Portici and Castellamere to Copre, and on the other side by Pozzuoli and Misenum to romantic Ischia.”
We visit all the places of interest in the neighborhood, and of course take a trip to Mount Vesuvius. We walk over the ruins of Pompeii, and observe the houses, signs, &c., and we cannot but feel that the inhabitants of ancient Pompeii must have been amongst the most degraded on the earth. The burning mountain stands as a living sermon, declaring that there is a Judge who will surely visit with judgment and destruction all those who forget Him, and who delight in iniquity.
At last we were on the road to Brindisi. This town is small and dirty, the people are lazy and wretchedly clad; marks of Popery are everywhere visible. We were glad to get away as quickly as possible. A splendid voyage awaits us to Alexandria. As soon as the fine Austrian Lloyd's steamer came into harbor, we hastened on board, and soon started upon our voyage to Egypt.
Alexandria
After a most enjoyable voyage for three days on the lovely blue Mediterranean, we were glad when the pilot boat neared us to take us into harbor. We went through the complicated channels of the Western Old Port, which are beset with shoals and reefs. At last we reached the harbor in perfect safety. The view of land on right and left was most interesting. In the distance we recognized the grand Pillar of Pompey, a splendid monument which recalled a thousand memories. As we landed, strange feelings of awe came over us, as we exclaimed: "We are now in the land so famous in history! The land distinguished for its civilization and powerful monarchy, when the father of the faithful went forth from Ur of the Chaldees to go into the land of Canaan '” (Gen. 11:3131And Terah took Abram his son, and Lot the son of Haran his son's son, and Sarai his daughter in law, his son Abram's wife; and they went forth with them from Ur of the Chaldees, to go into the land of Canaan; and they came unto Haran, and dwelt there. (Genesis 11:31)). It was in great splendor when the patriarch's sons were there in wretched slavery. It saw its best and most brilliant times when David and Solomon reigned over the chosen tribes. Egypt, home of some of the grandest heroes with which the world has ever been honored! the attraction of the Roman conquerors, the desire of the Persian and Macedonian warriors. Egypt, home of some of the finest philosophers! Beautiful Alexandria! the cradle of Jewish civilization, the birthplace of the eloquent apostle Apollos, and reminding us of St. Louis of France, and of Saladin, the most determined enemy of Richard Cœur de Lion Egypt, land of saints, such as Athanasius and Origen, who delighted to dwell there! Land of the Pharaohs! how inspiring, when we recall the most thrilling event in the history of the infant Savior, when Joseph "arose and took the young Child and His mother by night, and departed into Egypt, and was there until the death of Herod, that it might be fulfilled which was spoken of the Lord by the prophet, saying, Out of Egypt have I called My Son.”
Soon after our arrival we were comfortably settled in the hotel, and having rested and breakfasted, went out to ramble about the streets of an Oriental city for the first time. Curious indeed to us was the sight of many half-naked Arabs and others, in costumes unfamiliar to a European. There were garments and turbans of many colors. The dervishes had on high light caps. The faces of the women were covered with veils, which concealed all but their eyes. Maidens were carrying earthen vessels upon their heads. Mothers carried their children on their shoulders, reminding us of the descriptive prophecy of Isaiah 49: 22: "Thus saith the Lord God, Behold, I will lift up mine hand to the Gentiles, and set up my standard to the people: and they shall bring thy sons in their arms, and thy daughters shall be carried upon their shoulders." Still more strange and interesting was it to see other women tenderly carrying their offspring upon their sides, charmingly reminding us of the words of Isaiah 66:1212For thus saith the Lord, Behold, I will extend peace to her like a river, and the glory of the Gentiles like a flowing stream: then shall ye suck, ye shall be borne upon her sides, and be dandled upon her knees. (Isaiah 66:12), "For thus saith the Lord, Behold, I will extend peace to her like a river, and the glory of the Gentiles like a flowing stream: then shall ye suck, ye shall be borne upon her sides, and be dandled upon her knees.”
We visited Pompey's Pillar, which stands on a splendid eminence. Obelisks and ruined fragments of ancient idols lie scattered over the plain. These gods, made by the hands of men in shapes most revolting and disgusting, constrained us to remember the words, How are thy gods fallen, O Egypt. "Against all the gods of Egypt I will execute judgment: I am the Lord" (Exodus 12:1212For I will pass through the land of Egypt this night, and will smite all the firstborn in the land of Egypt, both man and beast; and against all the gods of Egypt I will execute judgment: I am the Lord. (Exodus 12:12)).
Not having time to make acquaintance with Jews in the ordinary way, I went to the synagogue during the time of morning service. After witnessing the evident want of earnestness in their devotional exercises, I entered into conversation with an elderly man, with whom I remonstrated for the want of reverence in the house of prayer. He pleaded guilty, but excused himself thus: "We have no temple, and no sacrifices, and no priest," and worship in this place could not be of such great importance as in the ancient sanctuary. After some further conversation, I reminded him of the words of Israel's greatest Teacher and Prophet, " God is a Spirit: and they that worship Him must worship Him in spirit and in truth " (John 4:2424God is a Spirit: and they that worship him must worship him in spirit and in truth. (John 4:24)).
After two days in Alexandria, we started for Cairo: it is a journey of about four and a half hours by rail, a distance of 130 miles. The ride is intensely interesting. Objects of considerable curiosity constantly meet the eye. Passing through the different stations, we found boys and girls flocking with their earthen jars, offering the thirsty traveler a refreshing draft of cold water. Men and women thrust their oranges into the carriages for prices which seemed to us ridiculously cheap; and half-naked children and adults held out their dirty hands, and asked for bachshish; and as I responded to the requests of some, and gave them small gifts, I could not help exclaiming: "Here am I, a descendant of the race that once was in slavery in this land, oppressed by these people; but now how different things are!”
At last we arrived in Cairo. We found our way to a comfortable hotel, and hastened to visit such places of interest as Cairo offers. The narrow streets with their strange irregularities told us that we were in a truly Oriental city. The bazaars, mosques, the strange exteriors of the houses, all help to impress upon the mind the strangeness of the Arabic style. A visit to the Mosque of Sultan Hassam is worth the trouble. Its lofty and beautifully ornamented porch, the rich cornice of its towering walls, its minaret, and the arches of its spacious court, are most interesting and instructive. This mosque is considered by the Caireens as superior to all others. It is said that when the architect completed this edifice, the king ordered his hand to be cut off, so that he might never be able to build another like it.
After visiting the tombs of the Caliphs of Egypt, of the Bahrite Mamlook Kings, the Baths, Pyramids, &c., we entered the Jewish synagogue. Here we found a number of Jews, who were most willing to show us everything which was accounted sacred by them. We freely conversed with them on the "Hope of Israel;" they listened with respectful attention.
Our object being to reach Palestine as soon as possible, we took train to Ismailia, and thence by boat we went through the Suez Canal, and arrived in Port Said in time for the boat to Jaffa.
The steamer for Jaffa was crowded with Jewish pilgrims, who were on their way to the Holy Land. Many of these were from Russia, Poland, Austria, Spain and Portugal. Soon I found myself in conversation with some, with whom I was delighted to be able freely to speak of Moses and the prophets and, above all, of Christ—the Greater than Moses. How charmed I was to find that some of these sons of Abraham had already heard the Scriptures expounded by our noble missionary, Dr. Ben Zion of Odessa. These Jews seemed perfectly acquainted with the Messianic passages of Scripture. It was most interesting to me to listen to some of them as they rehearsed the story of the crucified Redeemer, which they had learned from our dear missionary. I distributed some portions of Scriptures and tracts; some offered me payment for these gifts. Several shook hands with me, repeating the old Jewish blessing: "The Lord bless thee, and keep thee: the Lord make His face shine upon thee, and be gracious unto thee: the Lord lift up His countenance upon thee, and give thee peace.”
At last the long-cherished hope was fulfilled. We arrived in Jaffa, or Joppa. We called to mind the numerous legends, historical facts, and, above all, the scriptural associations, so tenderly engraven upon the heart, when, at our mother's knee, we learned about the Land of Israel. And who can look upon and walk through Palestine without thinking about Him whose is the earth and the fullness thereof? The city of Jaffa stands close to the shore; it is very picturesque from a distance.
According to Pliny, this city was full of life and power before the Flood. On the shore the sea view is delightful; numbers of small boats pass through the legendary spot where stands the jagged reef, to one point of which it is said the famous Andromeda was chained, whence she was rescued by Perseus.
In this locality the tribe of Dan distinguished itself by conquest when, under Joshua, the land was taken (Josh. 19:4646And Me-jarkon, and Rakkon, with the border before Japho. (Joshua 19:46)).
It was from hence that Jonah started on his unfortunate voyage when he fled from the Lord and from the path of duty. It was in this city that Dorcas lived as an angel of mercy ministering unto the needy, a true disciple of Christ, and living a noble life of charity.
It was here that Peter in the name of the Lord performed his great miracle when, in answer to his prayer, Dorcas was raised from the dead. Here stands the house where Simon the tanner lived. The supposed house is built of large stones, the walls very thick. In every sense the mark of many generations is upon the building. Narrow steps lead up to the flat roof from whence Peter saw, in vision,
Heaven opened, and a certain vessel descending unto him, as it had been a great sheet, knit at the four corners, and let down to the earth, wherein were all manner of four-footed beasts of the earth, and wild beasts, and creeping things, and fowls of the air" (Acts 9:35; 10:1-3435And all that dwelt at Lydda and Saron saw him, and turned to the Lord. (Acts 9:35)
1There was a certain man in Caesarea called Cornelius, a centurion of the band called the Italian band, 2A devout man, and one that feared God with all his house, which gave much alms to the people, and prayed to God alway. 3He saw in a vision evidently about the ninth hour of the day an angel of God coming in to him, and saying unto him, Cornelius. 4And when he looked on him, he was afraid, and said, What is it, Lord? And he said unto him, Thy prayers and thine alms are come up for a memorial before God. 5And now send men to Joppa, and call for one Simon, whose surname is Peter: 6He lodgeth with one Simon a tanner, whose house is by the sea side: he shall tell thee what thou oughtest to do. 7And when the angel which spake unto Cornelius was departed, he called two of his household servants, and a devout soldier of them that waited on him continually; 8And when he had declared all these things unto them, he sent them to Joppa. 9On the morrow, as they went on their journey, and drew nigh unto the city, Peter went up upon the housetop to pray about the sixth hour: 10And he became very hungry, and would have eaten: but while they made ready, he fell into a trance, 11And saw heaven opened, and a certain vessel descending unto him, as it had been a great sheet knit at the four corners, and let down to the earth: 12Wherein were all manner of fourfooted beasts of the earth, and wild beasts, and creeping things, and fowls of the air. 13And there came a voice to him, Rise, Peter; kill, and eat. 14But Peter said, Not so, Lord; for I have never eaten any thing that is common or unclean. 15And the voice spake unto him again the second time, What God hath cleansed, that call not thou common. 16This was done thrice: and the vessel was received up again into heaven. 17Now while Peter doubted in himself what this vision which he had seen should mean, behold, the men which were sent from Cornelius had made inquiry for Simon's house, and stood before the gate, 18And called, and asked whether Simon, which was surnamed Peter, were lodged there. 19While Peter thought on the vision, the Spirit said unto him, Behold, three men seek thee. 20Arise therefore, and get thee down, and go with them, doubting nothing: for I have sent them. 21Then Peter went down to the men which were sent unto him from Cornelius; and said, Behold, I am he whom ye seek: what is the cause wherefore ye are come? 22And they said, Cornelius the centurion, a just man, and one that feareth God, and of good report among all the nation of the Jews, was warned from God by an holy angel to send for thee into his house, and to hear words of thee. 23Then called he them in, and lodged them. And on the morrow Peter went away with them, and certain brethren from Joppa accompanied him. 24And the morrow after they entered into Caesarea. And Cornelius waited for them, and had called together his kinsmen and near friends. 25And as Peter was coming in, Cornelius met him, and fell down at his feet, and worshipped him. 26But Peter took him up, saying, Stand up; I myself also am a man. 27And as he talked with him, he went in, and found many that were come together. 28And he said unto them, Ye know how that it is an unlawful thing for a man that is a Jew to keep company, or come unto one of another nation; but God hath showed me that I should not call any man common or unclean. 29Therefore came I unto you without gainsaying, as soon as I was sent for: I ask therefore for what intent ye have sent for me? 30And Cornelius said, Four days ago I was fasting until this hour; and at the ninth hour I prayed in my house, and, behold, a man stood before me in bright clothing, 31And said, Cornelius, thy prayer is heard, and thine alms are had in remembrance in the sight of God. 32Send therefore to Joppa, and call hither Simon, whose surname is Peter; he is lodged in the house of one Simon a tanner by the sea side: who, when he cometh, shall speak unto thee. 33Immediately therefore I sent to thee; and thou hast well done that thou art come. Now therefore are we all here present before God, to hear all things that are commanded thee of God. 34Then Peter opened his mouth, and said, Of a truth I perceive that God is no respecter of persons: (Acts 10:1‑34)). The house is now largely used by Mohammedans for prayer. Here several followers of the Arabian prophet spread their praying-rugs, on which with seemingly great earnestness they prostrated themselves in prayer to Allah and the prophet.
Leaving this interesting traditional spot and turning to the right, we come into contact with a busy crowd of pilgrims from Russia who were hastening to Jerusalem, and with others who were returning from the holy city.
A scene which I shall never forget was most touching, when a company of Jews having just landed were so overcome with the thought of being for the first time in the land of their fathers, that they fell on the ground as if in ecstasies and most devoutly kissed the soil under them, repeating Erets Israel! Erets Israel! ("Land of Israel! Land of Israel!"). These poor fellows were surrounded by a crowd of half-naked Arabs who howled and yelled like savages; some of them took special delight in jeering and offering insults to the sons of Abraham.
A walk through the bazaar afforded considerable interest and amusement, people from all nations were there; Bedouins were making their purchases; Jews were selling their goods as if attending to the most sacred duties of life; shopkeepers were sitting on the ground, smoking cigarettes and pipes and drinking coffee, whilst their goods were inspected by customers. Here I was delighted to meet with a young man who conversed with Jews about the truth of Christianity. Having joined the company in conversation, it was delightful to find the readiness with which some of these Israelites listened to the message of peace, and received Hebrew tracts.
A visit to the Protestant school under the management of Miss Arnot is interesting. Here Arab and Jewish children receive a good education, and Gospel truths are instilled into the minds of the young. This school is especially for girls. Considering that the ordinary condition of Oriental women is a state of ignorance, superstition, and degradation, I was more than ever proud of my adopted country when I found that the school was liberally supported by the English Christian public. God bless the school and reward every subscriber for the interest and help bestowed on behalf of the lamentably ignorant daughters of Jaffa.
The scenery all around this ancient city is most charming. Orange flowers and ripe fruit are to be seen on the same trees. Their fragrance is wafted for several miles over the plains of Sharon, and for a considerable distance over the sea. Walking round the balconies of our hotel, a magnificent view of the city and its neighborhood presents itself. On one side we behold orange gardens in great loveliness, a fine view of the environs of the city and the mountains of Judea. On the other side we behold stalking camels laden with produce, tied together by halter and tail; while others were resting on their knees, ready to receive the burdens they are to carry over the sandy deserts.
Having rested in this city and seen everything of interest, we made our preparations for the journey to Jerusalem.
A lively and interesting scene presented itself. Travelers of various nationalities and their Arabian attendants, with colored flowing garments, some of them fully armed as if going to war. Everything was now ready for the start. The journey continues to attract and to interest.
After a short ride, the traveler finds himself in the country that reminds him of the ancient description, "A land flowing with milk and honey." If the traveler does not actually see milk and honey, he certainly beholds other objects of delight and luxury. On the right are the beautiful orange, lemon, pomegranate, and other fruit gardens. After a curious view of the place which our dragoman informed us is the spot of Dorcas' tomb, we proceeded to the famous Plain of Sharon, celebrated from of old for its exquisite fertility and beauty. While passing through it, we gazed and admired with feelings of sacred pleasure; we gathered bunches of flowers, lilies, tulips, and roses; we thought of the Royal preacher who said, "I am the Rose of Sharon." We thought of the poor downtrodden sons and daughters of Jacob, who, alas! are like a wilderness, but who "shall blossom abundantly, and rejoice even with joy and singing; the glory of Lebanon shall be given unto it, and the excellency of Carmel and Sharon, they shall see the glory of the Lord, and the excellency of our God" (Isa. 35:1, 21The wilderness and the solitary place shall be glad for them; and the desert shall rejoice, and blossom as the rose. 2It shall blossom abundantly, and rejoice even with joy and singing: the glory of Lebanon shall be given unto it, the excellency of Carmel and Sharon, they shall see the glory of the Lord, and the excellency of our God. (Isaiah 35:1‑2)), After going a little further on, we passed the old village, Hazar-Shual, which was, under Joshua, no doubt, a prosperous town (Joshua 19:33And Hazar-shual, and Balah, and Azem, (Joshua 19:3)).
Near this village, Abraham's fountain is pointed out to us by the dragoman, who, however, is careful to say that he is not very sure that it really was the "Fountain of Abraham I" We proceed until we arrive at Beth Dagon—house of Dagon (Joshua 15:4141And Gederoth, Beth-dagon, and Naamah, and Makkedah; sixteen cities with their villages: (Joshua 15:41)).
Weary with our long ride, we rested at Ramleh—the Arimathæa of the New Testament. Here Joseph resided, the disciple in whose new tomb the Lord was laid (Matt. 27:5757When the even was come, there came a rich man of Arimathea, named Joseph, who also himself was Jesus' disciple: (Matthew 27:57)).
Here were great and bitter conflicts between the Crusaders and Moslems. The mosque, once a church built by the Crusaders, still stands as a monument of the conflict between the heroes of the Cross and of the crescent.
From Ramleh we pass on to the Valley of Ajalon. With an open Bible in hand we are forcibly reminded of the marvelous triumph of Joshua, when the sun stood still in Gibeon, and the moon in the Valley of Ajalon (Joshua 10:12-1412Then spake Joshua to the Lord in the day when the Lord delivered up the Amorites before the children of Israel, and he said in the sight of Israel, Sun, stand thou still upon Gibeon; and thou, Moon, in the valley of Ajalon. 13And the sun stood still, and the moon stayed, until the people had avenged themselves upon their enemies. Is not this written in the book of Jasher? So the sun stood still in the midst of heaven, and hasted not to go down about a whole day. 14And there was no day like that before it or after it, that the Lord hearkened unto the voice of a man: for the Lord fought for Israel. (Joshua 10:12‑14)).
Passing through Latroon. Neopolis Vain Beit Nuba, we come to Kirjath Jearim (Josh. 9:1717And the children of Israel journeyed, and came unto their cities on the third day. Now their cities were Gibeon, and Chephirah, and Beeroth, and Kirjath-jearim. (Joshua 9:17)). This is one of the most interesting spots on the road between Jaffa and Jerusalem. Here was a stronghold of the Canaanites, and here Baal was worshipped. There are also the well-preserved ruins of the grand old church, which, in its time, was in the possession of the Saracens, Crusaders, and early Christians.
Here was a landmark between Benjamin and Judah. Here the Ark of Israel rested in the House of Abinadab, until David took it to Zion (2 Sam. 6.). We go on, gazing with wistful eyes, every movement bringing us nearer and nearer to the old metropolis of the world, the City of David, the Mount Zion of poetry and song. At length we behold the Tower of David, and with reverence and emotion we pass through the Jaffa Gate, and walk in the streets of Jerusalem.
“Jerusalem, my happy home,
Name ever dear to me,
When shall my labors have an end
In joy, and peace, and thee?
When shall these eyes thy heaven-built walls
And pearly gates behold?
Thy bulwarks with salvation strong
And streets of shining gold?
Jerusalem, my happy home,
My soul still pants for thee;
Then shall my labors have an end,
When I thy joys shall see.”